Roses

How to Prune Roses: The Pro’s Guide for South African Gardens

July 20, 2026

Watch · Roses
How to prune roses — the pro’s aftercare
Cut clean. Seal. Spray. Feed. Watch the full method in under a minute, then find everything you need below.
Guides · Roses
By Landscaper’s Secret · Winter pruning season · 6 min read
Pruning a rose bush with secateurs in late winter

Late-winter pruning — the single best thing you can do for a rose.

Roses look after you when you look after them. The single most important thing you can do for a rose is prune it properly, at the right time. Get it right and you’ll be rewarded with a stronger bush, healthier growth, and far more blooms come spring. Here’s how the pros do it — no gatekeeping.

When to prune roses in South Africa

Prune in late winter, while the bush is dormant and just before new growth begins. Across most of South Africa that means July into early August. In colder inland areas, wait until the worst frost has passed; on the milder coast you can prune a little earlier.

Why timing mattersPruning tells the plant to push fresh growth. Too early and tender new shoots can be burnt by late frost. Too late and you cut away the energy the bush was about to spend on spring flowers.

What you’ll need

Good tools make clean cuts, and clean cuts heal fast. Sharp, quality equipment is the difference between a bush that shrugs off pruning and one that struggles.

Secateurs and gloves for pruning roses
  • Sharp secateurs — for the clean, precise cuts that do the least damage.
  • A pair of loppers — for thicker, woody canes secateurs can’t manage in one pass.
  • Thick gauntlet gloves — rose thorns are unforgiving; work with confidence.
  • Cloth & disinfectant — wipe blades between bushes so you don’t spread disease.

How to prune roses, step by step

Diagram: red shows what to remove; cut above an outward-facing bud

Red shows what to remove. Cut ~5mm above an outward-facing bud, at 45°.

1
Clear the deadwood first. Remove any cane that’s brown, shrivelled or dead. Cut back to healthy green wood.
2
Take out weak & crossing canes. Remove thin, spindly growth and canes rubbing together — rubbing invites disease.
3
Open up the centre. Aim for a vase shape. Good airflow is your best defence against black spot.
4
Cut to an outward-facing bud. The new shoot grows the way the bud faces, so this keeps the bush open.
5
Angle the cut. Roughly 45°, sloping away from the bud, so water runs off instead of rotting the wound.
6
Shorten the main canes. By about a third to a half, to a strong outward bud. Harder pruning = fewer, larger blooms.

After you’ve pruned

Feeding and mulching a rose bed after pruning

Feed and mulch after pruning to power strong spring growth.

Clear away all the clippings and fallen leaves from around the base — they harbour pests and disease over winter. Give the bush a good feed as spring approaches, water it in well, and a layer of mulch will hold moisture and steady the roots. That’s it. The bush will do the rest.

Common mistakes to avoid

Using dull tools. Blunt blades crush the cane, leaving a ragged wound that’s slow to heal.
Being too gentle. A rose can take a hard prune; timid cuts leave a congested, less productive bush.
Cutting to the wrong bud. An inward-facing bud sends growth into the middle, undoing your open shape.

Everything you need for pruning season

Professional-grade secateurs, loppers, gloves and feed — the same tools the pros trust.

Shop rose-pruning tools →